(I got here two days ago, and wrote most of this text then, but I only got around to editing and posting it now).
First of all: I have a big, comfortable and brand-new office, on the 6th floor, with what appears to be a view of the academic/hi-tech district of the city. And that’s the most important thing, period. :)
When I got here, I was introduced to my office, to my apartment, etcetera. The only thing I wasn’t introduced to are the students and staff. The staff is mostly on vacation until the school-year starts (in two weeks). The students are here, but I wasn’t introduced to them. They’re keeping their distance, probably due to the not-yet-justified Dr. title that is prefixed to my name around here (I ceased complaining about that after the first day, since things seem to work differently over here). So I’m going through the students one by one, introducing myself, saying hi. (And trying to memorize their names, which for me is even difficult in the west). They’re somewhat reluctant to talk about their research (due to organizational norms, I presume) , but I hope to gain some progress by running a student seminar throughout the year, and by just hanging around.
On a related note, when I asked if the head of the institute is in the country, calling him by his first name, the secretary whom I asked (who was showing me around) didn’t understand what I wanted. When I said his full name, a couple of long second passed until it dawned on her that I’m referring to Prof. so-and-so…
I had my first few meals in China. All in casual Chinese restaurants a few minutes’ walk from the office. Chinese meat soup; dim-sum; a couple of different dishes of meat in pepper sauce with rice; extremely good pickles, marinated in huge amounts of garlic; and so on. The food here is very good. At home I pay steep prices for food which is not as good as this. And these have been, so far, just random places. I can’t wait to Chinese Gourmet. (We’re having Lunch on Friday in a fancy Chinese place… can’t wait). The restaurants are invariably pretty clean, and kitchen hygiene seems to be better than in Israel. This is a rich neighborhood, and I guess that’s probably part of the reason.
All of the restaurants in which I’ve eaten are near the east gate of the university, which, strangely, is on the south wall of the university. (They have some weird fascination with the gates of the university here. Maybe it’s the great-wall effect?). The food costs half as much as in Israel. I did have a chopstick disaster on the first day here, when I had soup: I thought I’ll be fine with my reasonable chopstick skills (by western standards, of course). But I wasn’t prepared to slippery soup-noodles with plastic chopsticks. After a series of bloopers, one of the waiters came by with a fork. It was quite embarrassing, and I bravely tried to go on with the chopsticks, but pretty quickly gave up and settled for the fork, like a Chinese pre-schooler. That’s probably going to be remembered as the low-point of my stay in China. Since then, however, I have fared very well with chopsticks. I respect them and they treat me nicely. I often image that the Chinese are secretly looking at me and admiring my western chopstick skills.
It’s very relaxed here, and people are nice and outgoing. The campus is huge and green, and reminds me of a somewhat run-down version of UC Berkeley. I live about 10-minutes walk from the office, in a somewhat scruffy-looking building. 5th floor, no elevator. But the apartment itself looks great. Greatly refurbished. Air-conditioned living room, air-conditioned bedroom, another spare bedroom (not air-conditioned), washing machine (no dryer), nice cloest space. The bathroom is a little scruffy, but all in all – <borat>A great success!</borat> The weird thing, though, is that there is no shower to speak of. There’s a shower head, and a drain in the floor, and a shower curtain, but no shower doors. One showers inside the bathroom, near the sink. I quickly gained the habit of brushing my teeth beforehand.
As I mentioned, everyone is relaxed (except their attitude to foreigners, i.e. to me, which is quite stressed out). It’s much calmer here on the street than in Israel, and I haven’t seen any confrontational scene or behavior since I got here.
The driving, however, is insane. Every car honks on average once every 30 seconds. Seeing as the roads are quite busy, the situation is nuts. (They’re honking quite gently, though. Not violently, just their way of saying “move on now, I have to get home”). They drive like maniacs, and I still haven’t realized what’s the road-signal that says one can cross the street. There are pedestrian lights, but so far I haven’t seen any correlation between it and cars stopping to give way.
The internet is censored, but I managed to bypass the great firewall of you-know-who quite easily. The bypass is not perfect, though, and I sometimes have to do strange browser-acrobatics in order to get what I want. This block is really anachronistic. After al, it’s not like I’m going to be involved in any activity against the regime or anything. I just want to access wikipedia and BBC. (Not to mention a few blogs, which for some reason the firewall blocks). My general stance on all of this is: The people here have a firm belief in “not rocking the boat”. The culture here is very different from mine, and I’m very foreign here, so I’m definitely going to go with the “not my country, not my problem” approach.
I have a great office, and it’s going to be very comfortable working in here. There’s also at least one secretary who is in charge of helping the “foreign experts” (as they call us) manage things in the Chinese-speaking environment, and this is very relieving.
The neighborhood is pretty crowded, and although this is considered “the foreigner’s neighborhood” in China, the Chinese still outnumber the foreigners in the street by maybe 200 to 1. The most important thing: Everyone can chillax — I have a Starbucks nearby! When I saw it, I was very relieved. I can now order my Venti iced Americanos (two shots). I could say that I was never more thankful of a Starbucks, but then I would be lying, as people who have been with me in Istanbul or in Salt Lake City can attest.
Things have generally been easier than I have anticipated, but some things are harder. One thing is that everyone is Chinese. This means that I can’t “read them” the way I read westerners (even westerners who don’t speak English). The other thing is that I forgot how hard it is living in a place where you don’t speak the local language, and people generally don’t speak English. I’m a very verbal person, and it’s difficult to not be able to communicate, except in body language. I was never good at communicating in this way, but I guess this is the time to learn. I’m going to learn Chinese, but it’s going to be a long time before I’ll be able to use it for anything practical, I think. The upside of being in China is that I get the speacial treatment reserved for foreigners, which is one of the great advantages of living here. I’ve always longed for special treatment, but in the West you can’t ask for it.
On a different note, here are a few nuggets:
Would Jules Verne have written about a Segway? Might have.
A great text, which captures the current mainstream state of mind in Israel quite nicely: It’s hunting season (English), and the original in Hebrew